Friday, August 31, 2012

Adios Guatemala

My dear Guatemala,


you enchanted my life and provided me with warmth, comfort and friendship, enjoyment, adventure, sadness and beauty.

I will carry you in my heart!





And I am looking for the magical city of San Francisco and my amazing friends there! 
It´s happening 2mrw ! 




Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Ending up in little Woodstock

-Where "Celebrate Yourself" becomes a new dimension! ;)

Somehow- I am not clearly sure how- I found my way to the Lago de Atilan and went there with some friends from Xela into the Hostel "Yo Mamas Casa" in St. Pedro.
Lake Atitlán (Lago de Atitlán) is a large endorheic lake (one that does not flow to the sea) in the Guatemalan Highlands. Atitlan is recognized to be the deepest lake in Central America with maximum depth about 340 meters. The lake is shaped by deep escarpments which surround it and by three volcanoes on its southern flank. Lake Atitlan is further characterized by towns and villages of the Maya people. Lake Atitlán is about 50 kilometres (31 mi) west-northwest of Antigua.
"At the water" is the meaning of "Atitlan." It is a fusion of simple Nahuatl words that belies the complexity of the entity it identifies. German explorer Alexander von Humbolt is the earliest prominent foreigner generally quoted as calling it "the most beautiful lake in the world."
The lake is volcanic in origin, filling an enormous caldera formed in an eruption 84,000 years ago. It is renowned as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, and Aldous Huxley famously wrote of it: "Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lago_de_Atitl%C3%A1n)
 The place is most probably one of the most relaxed and easy going travelers refugees I have ever encountered:

The sun is shining the entire day so that people walk around in flip flops and shorts, the lake is beautiful and I spent my mornings and noons laying on a sun warmed rock, going for a swim in the almost clear water every now and then, enjoy the landscape and celebrate myself.

The landscape is characterized by the gigantic lake, three volcano's surrounding hem and green mountains framing the scene. In the afternoons heavy and dark thunderclouds fighting against the sun above the lake, and usually in the late afternoon, the take over the scenery and a warm but intense thunderstorm will surge the water surface.

During the day- and nighttime vendors will stop by in the bars, at the lake and the hostels offering their goods to the people way too "relaxed" to be motivated of moving far. But even those vendors are unique and bizarre. The mayan-lady, aprox in her beginning 60ies with long grey hair and rural clothing, selling chocolate cake for example enjoys to play pool billiard at night with the Gringos when she sold all her food. The latin-guy selling filled bread and cookies, some with special spices, performs a rap once he did his business and all over the place you can buy fruits and donuts.

The people I have encountered here so far are coming from all over the place: Europe, US, Taiwan, Israel and are all more or less on their own travels. Some with a plan and a destiny, others just hanging in and see what comes up. There is no rush here and most of the people do not posses a watch.

Only now- with the time to decompress I realize how intense the last 7 weeks in Guatemala have been, how much I have learned, how many new friends I found and how much I miss my old friends in Berlin, San Francisco, Cologne and the other places. For me, these current days at this magical lake are characterized by open space, relaxation and freedom!

 However, tomorrow I will take of for Guatemala City since my flight takes off at 8 am on Friday morning, somehow sad, somehow happy I will leave the highlands of Guatemala and return to civilisation...

Friday, August 24, 2012

Hasta Luego PLQ

Sabre vivir dos meses de Tortillas

(english version below)

Yo soy privilegiado. No solamente por mi educacion, mi sexo, mi origen o mi pasaporte.
Yo soy priviligiado tambien por la oportunidat de observa, aprender y participar en la unica vida y cultura de los Guatemaltekos, en Xela y en el areal rural en el municipio de San Martin con sus comunidades Santo Domingo, Fatima y Nueve San Jose.

Esto no fue possible solamente por el apoyo de Hans-Boekler-Fundacion, pero tambien porque el PLQ y las personas que trabajan para y con el proyecto. La idea de enseñiar españiol para explicar el contexto culturales y apoyo a personas y comunidades locales tambien fue convincente para mi y unica.

Para mi, aprender ideomas es simular a la classes de un gimnasio para otras personas: una pesadilla aterradora, un trabajo dificil y una busqueda casi impossible.

Cuando llegué aqui no sabia cuando usar "buenos dias" o "buenas tardes". Pero con pacencia, pasión y humor mis maestros me introdujeron en el mundo magico, por ejemplo los "diez grupos de verbos irregulares", del "imperfecto", los "pronombres de objeto directo" y las diferencias entre "para" y "por".

Por una experiencia muy impresionante en la escuelayo quiero dicir gracias a mis maestros en Xela y en la esuela de la montaña desde el tondo de mi carazón. ¡Muchas Gracias Miguel, Milena y Rony(to)!
¡Sin embergo, en todo, mis bonitas experiencias son en asociacioncon mis queridas familias anfitrionas y con sus increibles y amables madres: Aldina, Elsa, Carmen y Teresa!

Entonces tengo que decir muchas gracias a mis compañeros de clase, compañeros de habitación y compañeros de infortunio, aparte de las empleados y amigos del PLQ. Porque con ustedes yo aprendi que la vida es muy breve para aprender aleman pero la vida no es muy breve para aprender español.

Ademas de tratar de comprende Guatemala y a las personas que viven aqui que es inevitable aprender tambien sobre probreza, hambre, migracion forzada y otros abuses de derechos humanos que son resultado del capitalismo y la politica egoista de los paises de oeste. Estoy aprendiendo sobre "resolucion de conflictos culturales", "conflicto aramdo internos" y "relaciones internacionales" pero es muy differente cuando se habla con personas afectadas mas per el. Yo solamente estoy empezando a abrir mi miente pero esta ya causa mucho dolor.

Cuando yo escuche por primera vez sobre la campaño "Mi nombre no es XX" yo lloré. Cuando yo aprendia sobre los niños no sabrian como dar vuelta a las hojas en los libros yo estaba conmocionado. Cuando yo escuchaba sobre incontables personas que hacen suicidos por muchas probñlemas con el dinero, el trabaja o la familia yo estaba triste. Cuando yo me di cuenta que un en salario en guatemala es considerado como bueno cuando algien gana 2,50 $ por hora yo estaba avergonzado. Y cuando yo oí que algunos inglesias evangelicas, la mayorita de los estados unidos, predican valores de individualismo, buena suerte en el dinero y piden de personas pobres 10% de sus sueldos yo estaba devastado.

- Una vez uno de mis maestros dijo: "Sascha, hay tres emociones muy destrutivas para uno mismo: amor, ira y mierdo." Pero yo me preguntaba como explicar la consecuencias la cadicia, envida y el comportamiento inhumano visble todas los dias aqui?

Ser aleman no significa solamente qye yo esoy privilegiado en este contexto, significa tambien, en particular considerando mi herencia cultural, que yo tengo que protestar contra el trato injusto e inhumano y que yo tengo que colaborar en solidaridad con qienes palean por la verdad, la ingualdad, la dignidad y los derechos humanos. -Estoy aqui me ha enseñado que esta palea vale la pena y puede tener éxito.

Seguro que, Thucydides tenia razón cuando dijo: " El dereche es una pregunta solamente entre iguales en poder, mientras los fuertes hacenio que ellos pueden y los debilos sufrenio que ellos tienen que sufrir. ¡Pero esta es verdad solamente por ahora- mientras nosotros nos preguntamos que nos diferencia y no nos preguntamos que nosotros compartimos!

Entonces, Guatemala en un pais en el cual los elementos fundidos y fuego, agua, aire y tierra llegan a ser un valioso spectaculo de la naturaleza. Donde la salidadel sol pasa por los nubes de un volcan y la arena negra toca el oceano.
La cultura de Guatemala es como su naturaleza: multicolor y rica, aún conlas condiciones dificiles, los volcanos activos o la cntaminacion ambiental, siempre algo va a resistir y crecer.

¡Para mi, Guatemala significa que yo tengo que llorar dos veces: una vez cuando llegu y otra vez cuando yo voy a salir! 


Surviving two months of Tortillas


I have been privileged. Not only for my education, gender, origin or passport; I´ve been also privileged for the chance to observe, learn and participate in the unique life  and culture of the Guatemalteks, in Xela and in the rural area of San Martin and its affirmiated communities Santa Domingo, Fatima and Nuevo San Jose.

That was not only possible by the support of the Hans-Boekler-Foundation, but also because of PLQ and the people working for and with that project. The idea of teaching spanish by explaining the cultural context and support local people and communities was not only convincing but also unique.

Learning languages is for me what the PE classes mean for others: a terrorfying nightmare, a hard job and an almost impossible quest. I came here not even knowing when to use properly "buenos dias" or "buenas tardes". But with the patience, passion and humor from the teachers I got introduced into the magical world of the ten "grupos de verbos irregulares", the "imperfecto", the "pronombres de objeto directo" and the differences between "para" and "por".     
-For one of my most impressive experiences in school I want to thank my teachers in Xela and in the Mountain School from the bottom of my heart! Thank you: Miguel, Milena and Rony! However in all my experiences where also involved my beloved host families with their incredibly charming hostmothers: Aldina, Elsa, Carmen and Teresa. Of course do I also have to thank my classmates, roommates and "compañeros de infortunio", staf and friends of PLQ. 

In addition to trying to understand Guatemala and the people living here it is inevitable to learn also about poverty, exploitation, hunger, forced migration and other human rights abuses as aftermaths of capitalism and selfish foreign policies from Western states. 
Learning about "intercultural conflict management", "internal armed conflicts" and "international relations" is soo different when you actually speak to the people mostly affected by it. I only started to open my mind-cuffs- but that already caused much of pain:
When I heard for the first time about the campaign: "Mi nombre no es XX" and talked to the people involved I cried. When I learned that when the libery in the Mountain School opened the children in the first place didn´t know how to flip the pages i was chocked. When I have been told that uncountable people commit suicide because of worries in regards to labour, family or money I felt sorry. When I realized that a salary in Guatemala is considered as a good one when someones earns2,50$/hour I have been devastated. And when I have heard that some Evangelia churches, most of them from the US, preach values of individualism, the fortune of money and push the poor people to donate 10% of their earnings to the church I became very angry. 

A teacher once told me that there are three emotions with most destructive powers: Love, Anger and Fear. But how to explain then the Greed and inhuman treatment visible almost everywhere in the streets and fields of the Highlands in Guatemala?

Me being German doe not only mean that I am privileded in that context, it also means that with historical heritage of my own culture it is my obligation to protest against unfair or inhuman treatment and to stay in solidarity with those who fight for truth, equality, dignity and human rights. -Being here has taught me this struggle is worth it and it can be successful.

Sure, Thucydides is right when he says: "Right is in question only between equals in power, while the strong do what they can and the weak suffer what they must." -But that only counts for no - as long as we ask for what us differs and not what we share!
 
In the end, Guatemala is a country in which the elements emerge and fire, water, air and earth become a natural firework. Here strives the light of the rising sun the clouds of an volcanos and black sand touches the sea. The culture Guatemala's is like its flora: colourful and rich, regardless how difficult the circumstances might be: active volcan's or environmental pollution: something will always last and grow!

For me, Guatemala means you cry twice: once when arriving and once when leaving!

Sunday, August 19, 2012

¡Cambiar!

Yes- I lost weight!


After recently a friend of mine posted a picture where you can see me without a proper haircut and with a few pounds less I can assure everyone: I AM FINE! :)

First of all- the picture was taking during a discussion panel about the recent activities of US-American authorities in regards to the massiv deportation of undocumented immigrants. That is usually a topic for which it is not so common to be optimistic and happy.
Secondly I haven´t been to a haircut yet since it doesn´t matter: there is no fu*** gay man close here!!!
And thirdly- yes: the diets here are reduced. Rice, beans and hot water instead o a soda for the meals is not a rarity and part of my daily nutrition. But since I have gained some pounds a year ago when I quited smoking (Yes- 1 Year ago!) I don´t mind so much to loose it again.

Clonar la tarjeta


Finally after almost 6 weeks the first misfortune happened: very common here in Guatemala my credit card got cloned! Being without cash in the rural area was actually pretty annoying and freaked me out. However, thanks to Matze and Western Union the problem got solved...For everyone who is traveling to Guatemala: be careful with using your cards! Even those ATMs secured by private security companies 24/7- they are not safe! When the president of Guatemala is corrupt- why shouldn´t be a security officer...

Sorry Will: I would have loved to go with you to Lake Attilan! Let´s meet in Manchester or visit me in Berlin!!

Coming to an end


Tomorrow will start my last week at PLQ. I am very sad but also happy for the experience, the friends I made and the Spanish I´ve learned. I decided to stay for my final week up in the mountain school since the environment, the class mates, teachers, coordinators and local families are unique. That means my online access is still reduced, but that way I can use the time to reflect on the impressions made and further open my mind cuffs.

Something new


But- every ending means another beginning: in 12 days my time here in Guatemala will be over- and my vacation in San Francisco will begin! My dear friends in San Francisco: I haven´t had proper food, liquors, others substances, movies, commerce and SEX in 2 months-

be prepared!!


      


Sunday, August 12, 2012

Al Mirador

Survived Tajumulco

 

Last weekend one of the most exiting hikes ever took place: walking up the volcano Tajumulcu!
As i wrote already- we got up very early and hiked 1.700 meters altitude- it was insane, exhausting and just awesome! When we reached the spot basis camp- a few hundred meters underneath the top it started immediately to rain. After becoming completely wet, freezing the entire night and wondering why I needed to participate in such a stupid adventure we got up at 4 am and hikes the steep last hundred meters- in complete darkness- only with our flashlights...But then..

...Then I saw the MOST MAGICAL SUNRISE I HAVE EVER SEEN IN MY ENTIRE LIFE!!!!!

All up on the highest spot of Central-America- hiked all by myself the sun surged between the clouds and enlighten the volcano and all the valleys, rivers and mountains surrounding. The clouds where so close that I thought I can touch them and the lightening of the sky seemed as if an angel inflamed it.
-If you should ever consider to visit Guatemala you have to do the hike!

Readjustment a la Montaña


The mountain school is one of the most pretties places I have encountered in Guatemala so far!
The school building consits of several sleeping dorms, 3 bathrooms and a huge kitchen. The classes taking place in little huts outside the building in the garden, in the afternoon accompanied by heavy rain showers and thunderstorms which makes the entire atmosphere cozy and tropical.

The communities the school is attached to is called Santa Domingo and Fatima. They where created in the aftermath of the Guatemalam Coffee Crisis in the 90ies. Since many workers lost their work, homes and livelihoods a major social crisis developed for in particular rural communities in Guatemala.

In order to deal with 1000s of families being forced evicted and destitute artificial communities where build, mostly by supported by funds from international organization, e.g. the Red Cross Spain.

Even tho I have studied a lot and thought I understood the life of rural communities- to participate in the everyday life of the families is sooo different: Three times a day I go to a designated host family to share the meals with them. In average 12 people living in one household, the original parents, their kids and the kids of the kids. Being 16 and being mother for the second time is not a rarity here since abortion is prohibited, the catholic and protestant churches oppose intensively the use of protection and sex ed is not taking place in school. For each member of a family the budget is 5 Q (0.50€) from which the family has to eat, school fees, clothing and transportation. Since there is no labour available in the communities the men are day laborer in bigger cities around, the transportation costs are already 16-20Q round trip. Costs for health care are not even considered...

I think I never really understood it, but when talking about the 1st. and 3rd. world we are not talking about different geographical contexts, we are talking about 2 different planets in which different rules, habits and possibilities exist. -Slowly, but deep down from the bottom of my heart, I start to deeply understand the outcomes of capitalism and neoliberalism.

I mean not knowing- I mean REALLY understanding!  
          




Saturday, August 4, 2012

Back to the roots

Conquer Tajumulco


This weekend it´s time: together with some people from my language school (PLQ) I will conquer Vulcan Tujumulco, the highest volcano in Central-America.

We will start Saturday morning at 5:30- it takes us 2 hours to get close to the volcano. From there we start our hike: all together we will climb an altitude of 1.200 m. Since the hike will take a few hours we will build up a basis camp closely underneath the top of the mountain. There we will sleep in sleepng backs, no lights, highly likely rain and temperatures around the freezing point. Because of teh rain and not engough firewood it is highly likely we will stay the night in total darkness. At 3:30am we will get up and walk the remaining few 100 meters up all to the top of the volcano (again- in total darkness) to see from there the sunrise!

For weeks now I am exited and, regardless if it is cloudy, rainy or the sun is shining- I can´t wait to see the volcano, challenge myself to the limit and get refunded by one of the most beautiful landscapes possible.

La Escuela de la Montaña


Right after coming back on Sunday afternoon I will get my luggage together and leave Xela for two weeks -up to the Escuela de la Montaña!

That school started as a project from the PLQ a few years ago. The idea is to introduce to the students the rural area of Guatemala and teach them next to Spanish also the lifestyle of the local communities which have been affected mostly by the 36 years of internal armed conflict.

I will stay in the community and share the meals with local families. I am very curious to be out of ´mainstream western society´ and to participate in the rural society in Guatemala. I assume a unique insight and feel honored that those families agreed on sharing their knowledge, culture and habits with me and the other students.

In reality it means not enough food, millions of mosquitoes, high hybridity and thunderstorms every afternoon, no Internet, no electricity after 7 pm , lots of downtime and an incredible unique experience!!!

I feel honored and appreciate the chance to look behind the curtain, I am also afraid of getting an even closer look on the aftermaths of the armed conflict and hope you guys will cross your fingers I am not catching Dengue Fever.

I assume I will be able to find a computer next weekend- until then I will enjoy the silence, nature, culture and beauty rural Guatemala!!

Hasta Luego!!!


Friday, August 3, 2012

¿Como?

Language is Culture: No Language - No Culture 


In my third week of learning Spanish I still haven´t figured when to say for example "Buen Provecho". Before, during or after the meal? I also still have major issues to understand people which I am not used to listen to or get the numbers people talking about. Why is it soo difficult to understand the numbers: prices, times etc? And the absolutely worst thing is that I still haven´t figured how to curse in Spanish. Except "Pu.."- which is not that exotic...

However, I have made some progress: I can introduce myself properly (mostly), can politely ask for things or order in a restaurant (again- mostly). Understand sometimes what my host mom tries to tell me and I am barely able to hit on someone. -Most of the times I just smile and according to the voice someone has I will either way smile even more and say "¡Si!" or look sadly and say something like "¡Oh- triste!"...

...Sometimes, I think, I am guessing wrongly- which is usually followed by a brief moment of silence from the counterpart of the conversation and this awkward feeling on my side...

It is definitely an interesting experience and everyday I am curious to explore how much culture is based on language and how much an understanding of the language determines your access to culture. -That sounds in the first moment kind of naive since it appeals to be obvious, but it is a crucial connection.  In the first few days I felt like in a bubble: seeing my environment, hearing and smelling it. But not being capable of interact with it. That is an intense feeling: being inside and at the same time outside. In particular the first few days I was scared and embarrassed and every tiny verbal interaction caused stress and an uncomfortable feeling. Until today situations occur which are weird.

For example when I am sitting for lunch with my host family and friends of the family are coming over. They know that I don´t understand what they are saying- and are uncertain themselves if it is OK to talk in the way they are used to or if they should switch into that kind of infantile language I at least sometimes understand.
Or there are people talking about a topic I want to contribute to: sometimes I do not think about my reduced capacities and start to tell a story. Mostly, during the first few words I realize that I just won´t be able to finish even the first sentence.

Those experiences leave most of the time a feeling of insecurity, and sometimes even of being stupid. I know I am not but other students experiencing the same. If you can´t access your environment you question yourself and worse- ask yourself what others think about you.

Anyways- there are things you do not need to talk to but still understand what it is about... -NOOOO! Not what you think: I am talking about SALSA!

I went last night for the very first time in my life for a Salsa class into a club. Some friends of mine here made some jokes since Germans do not necessarily have the reputation of being good in motions and in particular not in dancing. But- the music, the moves, the sexual energy and the beauty of Salsa are just highly addictive. It is definitely a good way to debrief...