Private Paradise

Mission accomplished

First of all I do want to tell the world that after three days of hard working and accountable trials I finally managed how to surf!!!  

In the first place I was thinking that without knowing anything about surfing it might be impossible to figure what to do, when to do. But as anticipated did I not ask for a trainer in the end. Since I had enough time and was the only one there anyways there was no reason not to try it until I would figure myself.

On the first day I spent 2 hours in a row in the water, trying to get on the board, stay on the board and catch a wave. That was actually all not too complicated but pretty exhausting since I did not know which waves where decent or when to take them, or even how. But in the end I managed to even stay on the board, not fiercely of course and only for a piece of a second but at least something.

The second day was not as productive as the first one. Partly because my entire body was sore and achy and partly because I couldn’t really get on the waves. Perhaps it was me or the waves where not big enough, but again I also made it on the board a few times.

The third day was the big eye-opener. The waves where just perfect, I was rested and really focused.

And then- more by accident I finally understood how to stick with the wave as soon as you ride it! Meaning that I was all of the sudden capable of staying on a wave and ride it actually to the very end! But not only that, also being capable of steering the board on a wave and, most important: looking incredibly cool by doing so!!!

What you have to do:

• First position yourself. Either stay next to the board holding it at the last third of the board. Alternatively you can lie on the board (also more on the back part) but in both situations you have to lay out your board in the direction of the waves.
• Wait for a good wave. The wave should break right in front of you, not before or not behind. The right timing of the break of the wave and you getting on it determinates the success. However, in order to get on it you need a little bit of sped, beginners like me either way jump on the board or having a trainer who pushes them on the wave.
• Once you are on the wave you have to put your weight immediately at the end of the board to assure that the front of the board will stay above sea level, otherwise will the water just push your board under and you splash into the water. As soon as your board has a little bit of speed it is way easier to stay on it, like with bicycling: if you ride too slow you will lose the balance. Then, and here comes the big bang, you have to push your weight in the front again in order to get in front of the wave and basically use her power to push yourself all the way back to the beach. By putting your weight back or forth on the board you can control the position of the board in the wave, meaning getting faster or slower etc. Once in that final stage you basically have full control over your board and can start to steer or take care of your posing.

The cute little city of San Juan (La Union)

The city is not much bigger than a village, with a neat City Plaza, a major road in the middle with a few convenient stores but no 7/11 or Jollibee’s and a few Resorts next to the houses of the local families, mostly fisher or farmer. It seems like the city has had its best days in the past and only a few resorts remember on the big fun and touristic place San Juan once might used to be. But with new beaches, new bigger resorts and more “western-standard” in other places the city lost its attraction to the main crowd. However, San Juan remained its charm and simple beauty and the unintended peaceful quietness suits the place even better. The sun is bright, the skies blue, the ocean warm and the beach endless, for what could you ask more.

What happens when you are all by yourself at a romantic beach?

That was one of the biggest questions I had in my mind when I was in the bus to San Jose. How would it feel to be at a beautiful spot made for couples in their honeymoons or retreats with your best friend? I was scared I could perhaps feel lonely, perhaps misplaced or perhaps just wondering what I was doing there.

-But it was everything else than that! Being in a resort so nice, neat, clean and friendly is already a great feeling. But then having the resort, the beach, the water and the waves all for you is just AMAZING! Sitting on the beach in my trunks, watching the epic drama of the sunset underneath a palm tree with the water tickling my feet –and not being around people but having this magical beauty all for myself…well- that is a precious treasure I will keep in my heart and let it shine whenever I am at dark places again.

Me - Time

 

In general I could use the “Me-Time” for important reflections and thoughts about my past and my future. What comes after my travels, what comes after my thesis? I was already able to start to figure what I want to do, why I want to do it and where I want to do it- but those thoughts needed more consideration and time to develop properly.

The new “Tales of the City” book from Armistead Maupin gave me company here in San Juan, it is called “Mary Ann in Autumn”. Even though I was not a big fan from the former” Tales of the City” book (Michael Tolliver Lives”) I must admit that the latest one is just great. It’s somewhat about coming home, reflecting on your goals, aims, dreams and wishes and a lot about the eternity of friendship, so coincidentally really well fitting.

However, I found a quote, one of so many others, which caught my special attention: “A mess who was traveling was, ultimately, just a traveling mess. Traveling might be broadening for a while but sooner or later it just narrows your illusions about what you could be”.

Well, in German there is that saying meaning that when you move or travel to another place you will take yourself and your thoughts, problems and issues with you. So I can see that point. Hence I noticed that for some issues or solutions you have to be at the right place- geographically and/or time wise. And sometimes it’s the different place you need to be in order to clean up your personal mess. “Place” has to become sometimes the variable you have to adjust in order to make sense out of things…

The second part is more complicated. Traveling of course does broadening your scope and by doing so it will narrow down your illusions. But only because they are illusions- I think, from my personal point of view, it just expands your vision about your environment and yourself. I have the feeling now, because of my traveling, to dream bigger and to understand better what it is I need. But perhaps it is the motive of your travels which determinate the process and outcome of it? 

Whatever, making a very long story short: I just had a great time with myself and reached by learning how to surf personally the next level of coolness! j/k

The next few days I will spend in Tagaytay, this time with Nelson again. I heard they have a somewhat active volcano there which you can hike to see in the end into a huge yellow sulfuric lake...

...and somehow I think the volcano is calling for me.

Social Research

Being in the field

 

Before I went to Manila I haven’t had a clear idea about my thesis, about my research approach or my methods I would like to use. In fact I thought it doesn’t make sense to plan so far ahead when not knowing the circumstances of the communities I will encounter. I thought it makes not much sense to plan something nice and fancy from my warm and cozy desk back home when I have not seen the living conditions, not talked to informal settlers and professionals or not having an idea about the real local and national political setting. 

As a matter of fact I decided to be in the first place an observer: looking, asking, and learning by joining my coworkers from UPA with their daily work in the settlements, meetings and discussions. I ate with the families in the shantytowns, drunk with my colleagues and walked through the alleys of the communities and surrounding neighborhoods. All that not only based upon a professional interest, but mainly because of a personal interest: life here in Manila, but in particular in the shantytowns, is following different rules, norms and values. Things can have a different meaning, significance and social dynamics are all rooted in poverty and the struggle of equality and justice. 

Neutral?

People could already start to argue here that I not stayed neutral enough, that I got involved and therefore biased. And yes, it’s true. Of course did I got involved- how can you be in Baseco- a slum of 50.000 to 70.000 informal settler families and not being affected? I would not be a responsible person if I would try to stay neutral when being in places forgotten by the world. I looked deep into the dark site of our world order, on the price others pay for our wealth, into corruption, suffer, overpopulation, devastation and violence. Even with the smallest understanding of social justice every researcher approaching the field should become involved. Otherwise would the research be just another example of exploitation, and perhaps one of the worst ones hence it would mean to degrade the families from human beings into social objects…

As a result I did get engaged in a somewhat participatory approach, meaning me being part of the research: observing and interacting. But as a social worker I could not just let people be passive variables in my inquiry, I wanted to empower them, perhaps to make them enjoy social research in the way I do and increase communication among them. Therefore did we trained, where possible, members of the families themselves to conduct the research together with us. Logically did also my coworkers from UPA become active researchers and supported my data collection. I think that three-way-approach is the reason for the huge amount and broad scope of data I collected so far.  

Nerd

I am already looking forward to the data entry and later the data analysis- it will be a lot of work but in the same time I assume I will learn as much as I did during the collection phase. Besides winter is waiting for me back home in Berlin, meaning so many rainy/snowy days with plenty of time for SPSS, transcriptions and first and second level coding. Something I could have figured already is the interest in social research. Thinking about issues, considering appropriate ways of approaching them, choosing methods and so on-  and perhaps in the end finding solutions or recommendations for social equality and justice -well, that is just so much fun- hmmm, seems like I turn out to become a geek in the end...

Learning how to surf     

Even though already once or twice announced here I never really made it to a beach in order to learn how to surf. That is now different. While I am writing these lines I am in San Juan (La Union), a cute little place with a 5km long beach and nice waves- six hours by bus away from Manila. According to the opinion of my friends is that place ideally for beginners to learn surfing.

Kind of funny is the place I stay- the “Sunset German Beach Resort”, check it out if you ever come to the Philippines and want to learn surfing as well :) The owner is German and kind of old grumpy guy (surprise!) but since it is out of season I have the entire place for myself. Unfortunately are the waves not too big, but i've been told that is actually better for a bloody beginner like me. I also denied to take a lesson instead I will throw myself just into the water and on the board. I assume it's like rollerskating: 

Just Do It! :)

Rural Philippines

Highlands of North Luzon

Somehow I always connected the Philippines with Manila, beaches, resorts, shopping malls and fast food. –But the last weekend proofed me wrong: the beauty of the highlands in North Luzon, the preserved rural culture and the amazing landscapes are the real treasure of the Philippines.   

That weekend was definitely one of the highlights of my time in the Philippines, thank you Nelson for spending so much time with me!

 

 

 

The city of Sagada

Sagada is a little city, almost a village way up in the north. Going there from Manila took us by bus around 12 hours, mainly because most of the road is serpentine and uphill. We passed amazing mountains, little villages, crossed rivers and valleys. Everything green and flowers and plants everywhere- such an extraordinary picture after being in Manila for so long. 

The town itself is described as a backpacker’s paradise and I can see why: neat houses, little cafes and restaurants, only one main road which is barely used. Many hikes and other activities plus a beautiful landscape and warm weather without any humidity! Besides- the place is pretty inexpensive, has a restaurant which is called ”The Yoghurt House” which serves a chicken curry you could die for and local pot is easily available. In order to avoid massive hordes of party people all the bars, eateries and convenient stores close down between 9 and 10 pm.

Next to waterfalls, mountain hikes and a massive cave system the city of Sagado is pretty famous for the local way of funerals: the “Hanging Coffins”. It is believed that the spirits of the beloved ones, once passed away, do enjoy being close to the nature, in particular seeing the sunrises. As a matter of fact has it become tradition to hang the coffins from cliffs or to put them into the entrances of the many caves nearby where the spirits can be close to the elements. When seeing those coffins someone might wonder why they are so tiny (yes- many Filipinos are pretty small compared to Westerns- but not this small), well, that has something to do with the posture of the dead: people believe that the dead ones should leave earth as they entered: in a fetal position.

On the very first day Nelson and I ran into this group of travelers: a Canadian with his girlfriend and an Aussie with his Filipino boyfriend. They were a lot of fun and invited us to join there bun fire right away. Sitting around a fire, drinking cheap gin, chitchatting and looking up into the stars – for me that was heaven. I felt immediately how all the stress felt off of me, how I was able to breathe again and just enjoyed the moment. Later on we were even capable of seeing the Milky Way and shooting stars.

The next day was the big adventure: the “Connection Cave Hike”. As mentioned above, Sagada has a huge system on caves, some are open for tourism, and others are still not explored. However, the biggest challenge is to hike through the two biggest cave systems in the region, that route has a length of 1.9  km and is 200 meters deep- all together the hike takes around 4  hours.

Even though I must admit that I was a little scared we totally did it! The entrance was right by one of those cave graveyards- unfortunately sometimes do those coffins fall down and therefore you can see several bones and complete skeletons while entering via a small little whole the system. Being in total darkness, relying completely on the guide and not hearing anything except the little breeze which goes through the caves is fantastic and scary at the same time. We had to climb, slide and walk. We saw gigantic stalagmites, caves as big as buildings, hundreds of bats, limestone structures so beautiful and precious and we swam through an underground river (called Spelunking). The water was crystal clear, pretty cold, and just incredibly: imagine a dark cave, the only source of light is the lantern from the guide, you can hear the rustling of the river and see the massive stone formations from the ceiling touching slightly the water surface and you swimming through it. No one else is there it is only you, the darkness and the water. I never thought I would be interested in hiking through caves- but that experience has changed my mind! It is challenging, adventurous, rewarding and breathtaking- all at the same time. 

The city of Banaue

By taking a jeepney and a little bus for a bit more than 2 hours we reached the city of Banaue, part of the Ifugao province, famous for its ancient rice terraces and rural tradition. The city has its own charm; it is bigger and busier than Sagada, several hostels, restaurants and bars with a river rushing through town. The houses are built right and left hand side of the river, along the valley and the river bed.  Although the city and surrounding nature offer also uncountable possibilities for hikes to waterfalls, hot springs and other sites, we could only spent one day in the city and agreed on therefore to focus on the rice terraces.

We went up to the viewpoint with a tricycle and decided from there to take the 3 hour hike back to Banaue, through the terraces! Those ancient terraces are 2.000 years old and gigantic. It is believed that a single migrating person have carried the terrace culture from South-China or Indo-China across to Luzon and southern Japan as well as Java. Looking at them from a distance makes you already to hold your breath for a moment, but walking on the edge of one of the water canals makes you feel being part of that dramatic scenery. We didn’t know the pathway but decided not to take a guide in order to increase the adventurous feature of that hike. We had to climb steep muddy cliffs, crossed some waterfalls, saw dead snakes and could just not get enough from looking at the terraces, the water running down slowly level by level, birds flying above our heads and the silence of the majestic landscape.

We also had to cross an Indigenous village. In particular the houses are interesting: They have a huge roof, a relatively small habitat and are on steels in order to make them portable. The older man we talked to explained that the house he is living in is the house from his grandparents, himself being already 70 or 80 years old. 

Interestingly some features about rural communities in the highlands are similar by comparison between Guatemala and the Philippines: highlands seem in general to preserve ancient culture and display the richness of the indigenous people, however- rural poverty and overpopulation is in both places a threat to the vital uniqueness of the cultural heritage.

To sum up I must say that I am a little bit sad not having more time exploring in depth the highlands, understanding more of the historical background and culture. The climate and weather, the way how the clouds crawling over the tip of the mountains while a fresh and cold breeze goes in the morning...That is for me just a perfect spot to be… However- thinking positively it means that I have that way a destination for my next visit in the Philippines.

 

 

 

 

 

Upcoming challenge: complete the data collection

Upcoming week indicates a crucial point during my time in Manila. I will (hopefully) complete the data collection phase of my thesis. Scheduled are again interviews, survey distributions and a focus group. If everything works out according to the planning I will be done this Saturday.

 

 Keep your fingers crossed.

Milestone

The last week

The last week I somehow had a hard time to write something in here, I guess for several reasons. One is definitely that I am currently really busy with data collection.  Preparing all the surveys, spreadsheets and plan and schedule everything with my coworkers, the communities and my travel plans is not only time consuming but also mentally exhausting. However, so far things have worked out well: I have been able to collect already more surveys than I expected and could record some really interesting and “rich” qualitative/semi-structured interviews. And that even though I am only half way through the collection phase: a few more interviews, at least 2 other rounds for the survey and a focus group is scheduled. However- without the support of my fabulous coworkers from UPA that success would not have been possible: next to their regular workload they help and support me in any possible way. THANK YOU for that my dear friends!

Another reason is that I was so trapped in my everyday life and did not notice how much energy the daily routine of Manila can drain you. With the traffic, smog, noise and environmental pollution, in combination to poverty, commerce, consume and millions of people I just did not notice how low my batteries where running, how much I was closed up mindset.

Last but not least has my last month of travel begun. That time indicates a very emotional moment for myself: questions and reflections about my experiences I have made so far throughout my travel as well as about those which might will come up in the next few weeks occurred. Those experiences are intense and a lot to handle since they touch topics I am wondering about for many years: What does home mean to me, where do I belong, what are my priorities and where to go and what to do next??? -People who know me better can write books about discussions with me over those subjects...       

The upcoming few days

I'm escaping the busy urban chaos for a retreat with my good friend Nelson to the city of Sagada. Hanging coffins and the 8th wonder of the world: the gigantic rice terraces are waiting for us. According to Lonely Planet that place must be a Backpacker’s paradise: fresh air, relaxed people, green tea and breathtaking landscapes. 

I am incredibly exited!!! 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagada,_Mountain_Province

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/philippines/north-luzon/sagada/travelblogs

The Urban Poor

The community of informal settlers in Barangay 825

Even tho I have seen a lot in the meantime it seems Metro Manila is a host to just an infinite dimension of poverty.

Today I went with two of my co-workers to a community living underneath a bridge of the President Quirino Avenue. The community exists out of 95 families, many of them living there already since the 1970ies. As so many other communities living close or at the inner city conduit (called Esteros) they are also affected by the "Pasig River Rehabilitation Project" which aims to clean up the river, but also means to evict the informal settlements along it.
 
Already by approaching the community I started to feel this  sensation in my stomach. No sickness, more "concernment". Firstly we talked to a family living to the right underneath the bridge- their construction resting on steels over a stinky, brown-grayish smelly Estero. Trash, garbage, mud and millions of flies- pictures I have encountered already but always get me somehow.

From there we went back to the street and had to pass it halfway. The road it splitted in the middle and in the gap between the pavements a ladder was constructed. We went down there to talk to the people from the community since we've heard there are o few "Returnees", meaning people who have been already forcible relocated and moved back. It was dark and smelly and only a narrow and low plank over the river provided entrance to the constructions people call their homes.

One of the returnees I wanted to interview for my thesis offered us into his home, above the plank, a little ladder led into his place. That one consisted basically out of a 2sqm wide and 50 cm high room, being the habitat for him and his wife. It was so tight I almost didn't fit, the only light was provided by a small bulb.
Shortly after starting the interview we had to change the location since the electricity company arrived on the street and was about to cut the illegal wires which provide the community with electricity, meaning for us and the community pitch-black darkness...

On the street, right next to noisy jeepneys and stinky trucks he explained his pathway, that he got evicted twice, the government failed to provide basic standards for living and he couldn't find any livelihood at the relocationsite and therefore he and his wife had to move back. Under tears he described his Tuberculosis infection and not having money for treatment. Now him and his wife are back in the city, he cannot work and the little money they have is provided by the day labor his wife has every now and then. Since they sold their place at the relocationsite they aren't eligible for a new one and since the community will be demolished in the end of October they are without any alternative: The next habitat is the street.
His Tuberculosis infection paired with the overall situation on the street mean that very soon he will be dead.

-Since I am still heavily emotionally impacted  I don't even want to mention the little children in that community, the current lifestyle they have and the future they are about to encounter...

Understanding Poverty

My personal goal for my time here in Metro Manila was to get closer to poverty and better understand the system of exploitation. However, on days like today I am not sure if I am strong enough to handle what I see, to cope with the stories people tell me or to understand the feelings I have in situations like today. Perhaps I am a sissy, perhaps I used to be too naive or perhaps it is just and only too much.

I have already be able to get rid of so many stigmata, I reconsidered my own stereotypes and discovered even beauty in the very darkness of poverty: courage, friendship, solidarity, hospitality and an incredible amount of humanity among the Urban Poor. But all those positive experiences getting lost in my heart when I sit with those people in a circle and they tell me that they don't have electricity for more than a month now and women getting raped and domestically abused. That the guy we interviewed today will be dead, only because society is not willing or not prepared to share the wealth. And there is wealth, everywhere around us. But we are just to greedy, to much concerned about ourselves and to stubborn to understand that every decision we make, regardless in Manila, Berlin, San Francisco or Xela, will affect someone somewhere. And that people you have never known before, are going to die because of those decisions. 

I always thought I would be a strong person- a maker, someone who sees issues , approaches them and works hard to find solutions. But there are places in the world where I am not able to see any solution, where I don't see any hope, where I only see the sadly truth, the truth that mankind sometimes sucks.

-And I promise, for all the women, children and men I have had the honor to meet in their communities: if anyone ever will tell me again that Capitalism is something positive I will beat the f****** shit out of that person!!!!!!!

The Urban Poor Associates

However, there are soldiers for humanity, those who keep the torch of Human Rights straight up and against any resistance. I don't mean military forces, I don't mean the UN or Caritas either. I mean those people working on the ground; either because they share experiences or because they share values; either because themselves or their families are affected or because they just care for each other.

In all the sadness, all the poverty and all the madness of capitalism and the aftermath of exploitation there are people like the community organizers from UPA, like community leaders in North Harbor for example, or architects from the universities who all stick together and fight for equality and dignity. Who will not forget that we are humans and part of us is just to take care of each other.

As hard my internship is -everyday, as much do I appreciate the employees and friends of UPA for sharing with me their values, perceptions and hope for a better world. THANK YOU!