As of today I am in Manila for an entire week. Strange
how the perception of time changes with
the places and the experiences you make.
Just a week ago I left cozy cool San Francisco and entered
hot mess Manila. Thinking I could handle the culture shock because I just went
through one in Guatemala and a reverse culture shock in the US was TOTALLY
wrong!!! But only slowly I start to realize the pressure and stress I have been
through in the first week here in the capitol: The noise, the bad air, millions
of people, shiny commercials and the humidity requested their tribute…
However, the incredible hospitality, friendliness and
supportive culture of the Pilipino people made it possible for me to get
settled really easily. Although I have never met one of the people here before
they supported me with an Apartment, Cell Phone, Internet, Movies, even Pasta
and Beer as well as hot and hung GoGos…More than I could have ever asked for! My
dear friends in Manila and elsewhere: Thank You All for all you support!
Surviving Kit
Some things I have learned pretty fast (and which were not
explained in Lonely Planet) are the five equipments important in order to
survive in Manila:
- First of all: PATIENCE!!! Not only because of Island Time but also because of the millions of people, traffic jam and the humidity -being impatience will only get you closer to a heart attack
- Secondly a towel, since even when you walk slowly: you will sweat! Sometimes so much that you have to escape into an air-conditioned mall even if you don’t need to buy anything.
- Thirdly, and connected with the sweat is water! I have experienced already major headaches since you are so easily dehydrating.
- The fourth item is an umbrella- when it’s raining and if you have bad luck you will be much likely soaked within a few minutes. Thankfully you can usually buy those at the train stations for 50 PHP (less than one Euro), but the quality is consequently bad.
- Last but not least is it always helpful to wear flip flops, when it’s raining heavily and the streets are flooded that is your only hope!
Something which marks the city by heart are the millions of
people living, working, commuting and celebrating here. It is impossible to
walk the streets and not see people. It is also impossible to ride the MRT in
the direction of Makati in the morning not waiting for at least three trains
only to be finally automatically being pushed in when in the front of the line
for the fourth train. Honestly I barely have had such an intensive
body-contact, even not when making out! When you want to enter a supermarket or
a mall or any other public building you should always calculate on a line since
there are hundreds of other people who want to enter (which brings me back to
my survival guide); and for some strange reason if you do enter public places
you usually get screened. Screening here means that two or more security guards
act as if they would take a look into your bag or purse. But since there are
masses of people they will just wave you though, regardless if or if nor you are a threat…
The Otherness
I can remember I wrote something about the “Otherness”
already when I was in Guatemala. And here again I do experience it every time I
leave the house or stay at home, watch TV or eavesdrop in a train, chitchat
with my coworkers or try to hook up via online dating. It is this constant
feeling not to belong, but also the constant feeling causing also a reaction of
peculiarity on the other person. Just only by having blue eyes and blond hair I
am somewhat obvious in any giving situation here- in the beginning I was afraid
people would stare at me, but that usually only happens with little children
which never seen blue eyes or an eyebrow piercing before…It is just awkward when
there is no place in public for me to hide, being a visible minority… “Otherness”
means, next to other things, not being capable of being one of the others,
being THE other! But not only the visible features are describing Otherness, habits,
customs, language, food -even how to eat food (why on earth Do you guys in the Philippines
not using knifes for food!!!) are different for me and sometimes a challenge every
day. Feelings which come with the otherness are extreme: excitement and
curiosity, fear and anxiety, happiness and loneliness and for me difficult to
handle. In line with those emotions is always my fear of making mistakes, not
being culturally sensitive enough or just acting for the local stupid and
weird. However, since there is a pool in my building I started to work things
out by swimming my rounds in the mornings and afternoons.
I believe I will get more used to the “Otherness” as soon as
I have established a somewhat everyday life…
Shantytowns and my Thesis
This week I also started officially with my intern. As some
of you remember that internship was starting point for the entire consideration
of the trip I am doing meaning I am thankful that finally after almost three
months I reached my destination. I have
just started to understand the work, the ethics and the approaches the Urban
Poor Associates (UPA) use in order to serve their clients, the urban poor, but
already after the few days I am convinced and assured that this internship will
become an unique experience, that I will learn a lot and my time with the organization
and the people involved will be a landmark in my life. While I had the chance
to understand concepts of the rural poor in the highlands of Guatemala, I have now
the chance to understand concepts of the urban poor better. I have never
thought my life would turn into that direction- but I am excited and eager to
get started with my thesis.
Today I went for the first time in my life into a shantytown.
Actually in one of the communities in the Delpan, to be more precise into one
of the affected communities of the local upgrade at North Harbor. Those people,
together more than 700 families, are supposed to get resettled in order to make
space for bigger ports and more money.
Some of the people in those communities are living there for
more than 30 years now, their entire livelihood gets destroyed and the resettlement
sites are questionable, as my experience from last Friday shows (see other
entry). Do they decide, for what reason ever, to move back to the city they
become “professional squatters” and not only losing their rights for further
social assistance for the next 10 years but also can get imprisoned or fined. The situation is really complicated but
somehow I have the feeling to be at the rights spot at the right time and hope
I can support the cause of UPA. How exactly I will figure in the next few days…
In advance I was quite nervous going into a shantytown. That
might sound naïve, but honestly- have you ever considered yourself in a place like
that? And what place do you have in mind when talking about shantytowns. I am
pretty sure if we would talk in a group of 10 about it we would get 12
different opinions. However, I made it today and must admit it was totally different
as expected. Having lunch with one of the families proved to me that solidarity
and hospitality are features not relying on wealth or money. Actually the
opposite: as less you have the more you share. However, I only saw a few communities
today which means it would not qualify myself for a proper opinion, however,
over the next few weeks I will hopefully be able to get more connected and to
understand those concepts and motives better. For tomorrow a site visit in the
community of Ulingan, also in the district of Delpan is planned. For that reason
I need to buy proper rain boots since the mud people live on is caused by
garbage juice…
Recreation
As already mentioned, Manila and the Philippines in general
are places of extremes, after seeing the urban poor for the weekend I am planning
on an recreation visit at Puerto Galera- a place only a few hours away from
Manila by bus and boat. For me the perfect place for reflection and further planning.
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